29 August 2025
The adjective white shoe is used in the United States to denote the establishment, the privileged, moneyed, and usually conservative, elites who traditionally run American businesses. And in current use it is often specifically used to denote top-flight law firms. But why white shoes? The term dates to the 1930s when it was fashionable among students at Ivy League schools to wear shoes made of white leather, so-called white bucks. The term moved out of collegiate slang into mainstream discourse in the 1950s.
A so-called guide to fraternities at the University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill that was published in the April 1932 issue of the humor magazine The Carolina Buccaneer establishes white shoes as a fashion trend among the collegiate set, although the article implies that the fraternity in question is a bunch of wannabes rather than the elite social set:
Delta Psi. Tony’s Place—the white shoe boys that wear flannels and brown coats the year round. They spend most of their week-ends in Philadelphia and points north. A very quiet house during Christmas and Spring vacations. The lodge has made progress in the past few years and will probably go in debt enough in the next few years to change it from the small time crowd that it now has into a good bunch of heavy taxpayers.
The following, which appeared in the Columbia Daily Spectator on 21 November 1933, places the white-shoe fashion trend in the Ivy League:
Bootblack Decries White Shoe Style
Lincoln, the bootblack who spends his days on 116th Street opposite the Hamilton Hall entrance to the Van Am Quad, is on the verge of writing a letter to General Johnson to see what NRA can do about white shoes on the Campus.
“White shoes,” he declared yesterday, “are all right in the summertime when I can make an honest living keeping them white. But the government should prevent young fellows from making fools of themselves by wearing them dirty all winter and ruining a man's honest business. If the College won't do anything about it, I'll write to Washington.”
The earliest use of the figurative sense of white shoe that I’ve found is from the Chicago Daily Tribune of 28 December 1933:
“I can see,” he said, “that Pearson and Davenport colleges at Yale are going to become the fashionable colleges of the United States as Christchurch [sic] is the fashionable college at Oxford. The ‘white shoe boys of Park avenue’ already have taken up these two colleges and managed to impart an air of social distinction to their walls.[”]
And again from the Columbia Daily Spectator, this time from 25 April 1934, we get a humorous take on the white-shoe fad among Ivy League students:
ITS HERE! THE MONSTER CAMPAIGN CALCULATED TO RID. THE CAMPUS OF THE GREATEST NUISANCE SINCE CLASSES WERE INVENTED. THE WHITE SHOE HAS COME TO GO!
Once an innocent jest, the white shoe has come to stain. Originally the footwear of hospital internes and street cleaners, its sanctity has been invaded by the college student, who jumps into anything feet first. Wherever primitive savagery has flourished in all its pristine simplicity the white foot has always come to trample. Furthermore, from the earliest days of Rome unto the present time, the white shoe has been a symbol of disintegrating masculinity. Are we disintegrating, boys? NO!
[…]
The following is the procedure to be followed in stamping out the white shoe aristocracy.
The article goes on to advocate stepping on and scuffing up fellow students’ white shoes.
Not to be outdone by Columbia in the humor department, the Daily Princetonian of 25 November 1941 had this literal-but-with-class-implications use of white shoe:
According to their sociologist-representative Dr. O. K. (Vienna) Hackenablemish, N. Y. N. H. & H., Princeton lends itself unusually well to a simultaneous cultural and institutional analysis. (Yes!) Six aspects of Tiger culture become apparent from the first.
First is the material culture, or Artifacts, as it is so familiarly known. Of course, you've heard of that. You know, the old “Show me a white shoe (five-button-coat, station-wagon, crewcut, beer-jacket, etc., etc.) and I'll show you a Princeton man” kind of stuff.
The OED Online’s earliest citation is from the Princeton Alumni Weekly of 21 November 1947. This passage uses white-shoe boys as a synonym for Princeton undergrads and also shows that the employment of precariat faculty is nothing new:
The white-shoe boys will get their course selections in on time from now on or else, according to a recent ruling by the Board of Trustees. Or else they will part with $20 vacillation fee. The old charge for changing courses in midstream was a modest $5, and it was not considered that this amount covered the hiring-and-firing expenses occasioned by post-deadline switches. These amounted to 840 at the beginning of the term, a number large enough to wreak havoc with long-range precept plans.
This 7 August 1951 advertisement for Nieman-Marcus in the Dallas Morning News, offering fashion advice, gives some explanation for the term and opines that the social distinction does not carry over into life after graduation:
Social lines are faint and easily broken. During our school days, we used to hear the terms, “white shoe” and “black shoe.” The white shoe boy was the one from the right kind of family, with the right kind of money, wearing the right kind of clothes and joining the right kind of clubs or fraternities. The black shoe boy was the hick, the yokel. In later years, however, we found that the terms were pretty meaningless. A lot white shoe boys we used to know work for black shoe boys, these days, and are very happy when the boss take them to his club for dinner.
A pair of articles in the September 1953 issue of Esquire use the term. One by Russell Lynes, “How Shoe Can You Get,” details the collegiate slang at Yale:
At Yale there is a system for pigeonholing the members of the college community which is based on the word “shoe.” Shoe bears some relation to the word chic, and when you say that a fellow is “terribly shoe” you mean that he is a crumb in the upper social crust of the college, though a more kindly metaphor might occur to you. You talk of a “shoe” fraternity or a “shoe” crowd, for example, but you can also describe a man’s manner of dress as “shoe.” The term derives, as you probably know, from the dirty white bucks which are the standard collegiate footwear (you can buy new ones already dirty in downtown New York to save you the embarrassment of looking as though you hadn’t had them all your life), but the system of pigeonholing by footwear does not stop there. It encompasses the entire community under the terms White Shoe, Brown Shoe, and Black Shoe.
White Shoe applies primarily to the socially ambitious and the socially smug types who affect a good deal of worldly sophistication, run, ride and drink in rather small cliques, and look in on the second halves of football games when the weather is good. They try so hard not to be collegiate in the rah-rah (or, as they would say, “Midwestern”) sense of the term that they are probably the most “collegiate” types now in college.
And this one by Martin Mayer on Harvard makes the elitist claim that Harvard, by admitting large number of scholarship students, can no longer be considered white shoe:
The ten thousand students who with varying degrees of assistance educate themselves at Harvard come from every part of the United States and literally dozens of foreign countries, in all shapes, sizes, colors and religions. Harvard is not today a society school; it isn’t even white-shoe.
Today, white shoe is probably most often used in reference to high-powered law firms, whose associates and partners come out of elite law schools. There is this description of then-newly appointed Supreme Court Justice John Marshall Harlan II in the 25 September 1955 Trenton Sunday Times that uses the term in the specific legal context:
Indeed he is a new breed of cat on the Court. Though born in Chicago, he is a Princeton-to-Oxford-to-Wall Street product—the Court’s first Ivy League “white-shoe” boy, its first Rhodes scholar, its first full-fledged eastern Dewey Republican.
And for an example of more recent vintage, there is this from the New Yorker of 5 May 2025:
Executive orders such as the ones titled “Addressing Risks from Paul Weiss” and “Addressing Risks from Jenner & Block” are self-evidently cudgels for Trump to wield against his enemies—in this case white-shoe lawyers who have worked for his political opposition.
White bucks may have gone out of fashion, but the term they spawned lives on.
Sources:
Thanks to Fred Shapiro for pointing out some of the early uses to me.
A Bared Manual of Carolina Fraternities.” Carolina Buccaneer, April 1932, 8/2. Archive.org.
“Bootblack Decries White Shoe Style.” Columbia Daily Spectator (New York City), 21 November 1933, 1/5. Columbia Spectator Archive.
Gibbs, C. McCague. “Yale ‘News’ Sends Dr. Hackenablemish to Analyze Johnny-Come-Lately Culture.” Daily Princetonian (New Jersey), 25 November 1941, 1/2. Papers of Princeton.
Heimann, Robert K. “On the Campus.” Princeton Alumni Weekly, 12 November 1947, 8/3.
“High Court.” Trenton Sunday Times-Advertiser (New Jersey), 25 September 1955, Part 4, 14/6–7. Readex: America’s Historical Newspapers.
“It’s Here! The Monster Campaign.” Columbia Daily Spectator (New York City), 25 April 1934, 2/2. Columbia Spectator Archive.
Lynes, Russell. “How Shoe Can You Get.” Esquire, September 1953, 59 and 128. Esquire Magazine Archive.
Marantz, Andrew. “Is It Happening Here?” New Yorker, 5 May 2025, 30/1. New Yorker Archive.
Mayer, Martin. “Tubs and Bottoms. Harvard: What Makes It Great? What Keeps It Free?” Esquire, September 1953, 118. Esquire Magazine Archive.
Nieman-Marcus “Point of View: On Teenagers” (advertisement). Dallas Morning News (Texas), 7 August 1951, part 3, 1. Readex: America’s Historical Newspapers.
Oxford English Dictionary Online, March 2015, s.v. white-shoe, adj.
“Professor and Student Praise New Yale Plan.” Chicago Daily Tribune, 28 December 1933, 5/4. ProQuest Historical Newspapers.
Photo credit: Harris and Ewing, 1917. Wikimedia Commons. Library of Congress. Public domain image.